Hey everybody, Sam Jackson with Heartland Turf and landscape and we’re in the fall season where temperatures are starting to cool off. And some of us may have a few brown spots in our lawn from various stresses during the summer. You know whether it’s a maybe you had a little bit of fungus or there were just some dry patches that died during the really hot dry season. Now the Fall is the time that you want to go ahead and do the repairs. rather than waiting until next spring, it’s always best to plant in our area in the Kansas City metro area in the fall. That read that way when we get to the next hot, dry summer, you’ve got a much more mature plant in the root system that can tolerate that hot dry summer if you plant in the spring. Most likely when we hit July and August and temperatures are really hot that new grass won’t have a deep enough root system. And we’ll make it through the summer. So planting your grass seed in the fall. So a couple of reminders when you’re selecting your grass seed in our area commonly, tall fescue and bluegrass are what most residential lawns are made up of. When you’re choosing your seed, you want to look at three different things that are the most important parts of good quality seed. The first thing is the germination rate. The seed that we use has a 90% germination rate that’s lab tested. So you can be assured that the majority of the seed that you’re spreading in the lawn is actually going to sprout. The two other things should also have a crop seed percentage and a weed seed percentage listed. And both of those need to be 00 percent, you do obviously do not want any other weeds or, you know, other bio crops showing up in your lawn when your grass is sprouting because then it’s just gonna be a problem you’ll have to deal with later. So check that when you’re buying your seed, we generally use a mix of three different types of fescues. For our lawn seeding service. The reason we recommend doing a seed blend that most varieties of different diseases that can affect your lawn such as bacterial viral fungus, diseases, fungal diseases, they’re going to how many of them are going to attack a specific variety of grass. So if you use a blend of varieties, if you have a problem with one of those diseases, most likely you’re not going to lose the whole lawn to it, it may just affect one of the varieties that are in your lawn. So it gives you an inherent disease resistance when you do a variety of fescues we also do a little bit of MC we have one mix that we mix in about 10% bluegrass scene that we use that works a little bit better if you have shady conditions can bluegrass can tolerate shade a little bit better than fescue can. So that’s the other thing to keep in mind is if you’ve got a shady condition, you can look for a mix of See that’s got fescue and then a 10 to 20% mix of a couple of different kinds of bluegrasses as well. So anyway, I’m gonna turn the camera around here and show you get a generally healthy lawn. But there’s a little spot right up here along the sidewalk that died out and turn brown net when in the heat of the summer never came back. So you know something like this, it’s hard to say what caused that little patch to die out I would guests be in this close to a sidewalk there’s some gravel that still remains from construction. And this whole area just doesn’t hold moisture real well that’s we see this commonly long driveways and sidewalks and that’s usually the culprit but it could have been anything. Anyway. So what I like to do to repair a little patch like this is get yourself one of these handy dandy garden weasel tools. There are all kinds of different brands but you know 15 to $20 at your local big-box store or garden store. Basically just got a whole bunch of little tines to help break up the surface of the soil. You can also use a hard tine rake for this. So get my bucket of seed here. And generally, what I do is I’ll work the whole area with this tool, break up the surface, sprinkle my seed on here, and very lightly, you don’t need to pound the whole entire area, I would say for this whole patch right here, maybe three handfuls of grass spread out over this area.
So yeah, work sprint, work the ground with your tool to kind of break up the surface. Get your seed on the area, and then work it in one more time with a tool one after you spread the seed. Because the most important thing is you want that seed to get down To the surface of the soil, and just below the surface, about half an inch to an inch below the surface of the soil. So that’s why you really want to work it in. If you just toss some seed on the top of your lawn here, it’s not going to sprout. So once you’ve got that all planted, it’s time to water. You want to keep this damp for the first 10 to 14 days while it’s sprouting, so we recommend watering three times a day for about five to 10 minutes. If the whole point is is if it dries out at any point in the process, it’ll most likely, especially if it’s already sprouted, and it goes a day with being completely dry. That grass that little seedling with that minuscule root will dry up and die, and then it doesn’t come back. So once you started the process, you need to keep it damp doesn’t have to be soaking wet, just damp like a damp paper towel and keep it damp for the first we recommend two weeks, and then at that point, the grass should be about an inch tall. And then it should be able to tolerate once a day watering, but you still got to make sure that you’re keeping all that soil really damp because it’s got a really shallow root and it’s doing all it can to survive and drink up as much moisture as it can so water once a week for the rest of the season. And then after that, you should be good to return to normal watering in the spring and it’ll develop into a mature lawn and be beautiful and you should be good. Good to go at that point. I’m going to make a more detailed video about our watering instructions. So keep an eye out for that. Thanks for watching.